I still remember how excited I was when Pig Heaven opened, 15 years ago. Not only did the kitschy barnyard motif with plump pink prancing piglets on the wall transcend the design clichés of Chinese restaurants, but the food, a combination of Cantonese and Sichuan with a couple of dozen pork dishes, was intriguing and satisfying. I particularly recall a Pig Heaven take out meal one Fourth of July, when my father was grumpily confined to a hospital room overlooking the East River. Thought we could see the celebration going on outside, we were more thrilled by the fireworks on our plates.But Pig Heaven lost its airy luster over the years. Its founding spirits, David Keh and Ed Schoenfeld, are long gone from the restaurant, and when I last ate there, a year ago, the food seemed to have declined as deeply as the fraying décor. Now that New Yonkers know so much more about authentic regional Chinese cuisine than they did in 1984, Pig Heaven seemed sadly anachronistic. Now, the good news. Recognizing that resuscitation was necessary, the pr
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